You can't "get away" with so-called flame annealing if you want to sell your work with a clear conscious, even small beads.
My favorite kilns for beadmaking have these features:

*programable, digital pyrometer -- this doesn't need to be a ramp controller, just something that will REALLY BE 950 degrees.
*lift top or some other safe way to insert beads. I always burn my knuckles using the little "door" openings to place finished beads.
*a door that has a rack outside of it to preheat the rod tips. This keeps the rods from shocking and spitting when they first hit the torch.
*kiln brick instead of fiberglass insulation. These retain enough heat that I can just switch it off after annealing small beads, and it will drop temperature slowly between the anneal temp and the strain temp. Fiber kilns, like the Toolbox kiln, need to be ramped down more slowly especially for larger, more delicate stuff.

Personally, I like my Arrow Springs kiln (with a "set point" controller), and have seen some nice ones from AIM too. Just be sure you understand the programming before you buy something overly complicated. There are some beads kilns out there that have a nice structure but then have an incomprehensible computer attached.
Good luck! ~firebrand