anybody willing to discuss laying down kiln wash on stainless?
I'm having problems with laying it down without streaks and building
it up evenly and the alumina is doing its best to sink out of the mix.
perhaps I should be happy with a thin film and reapply often?
I'm having problems with laying it down without streaks and building
it up evenly and the alumina is doing its best to sink out of the mix.
perhaps I should be happy with a thin film and reapply often?
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Fri, January 11, 2008 - 3:06 AMHave you roughed it up with sand paper or something. I think that's how I did it. -
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Fri, January 11, 2008 - 10:05 AMIs this for a pastorelli plate?
If so, make the mixture very watery & do in 2-3 coats. -
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Fri, January 11, 2008 - 10:32 PM
Light- I am using the stainless for slumping.
Crypto-The stainless I'm using has a bit of texture to it so sanding won't help much but that makes sense.
I am thinking that I need to have either thicker layers of wash that I can smooth (without killing my lungs) or have a nice film of alumina in such way that the glass isn't grabbing but I can retain the mold surface rather than the surface that's in the kiln wash. When it's super thin I run into the problem of keeping the alumina in the mix. It literally falls out after five seconds. I almost need a spray device that's constantly mixing...if there is such a thing. The action of trying to use water as a medium and get it to dry properly with stainless is troublesome it's easy with ceramic cause the water gets sucked into the bisque. With stainless its hard to get it to adhere to the surface cause the water doesn't go anywhere.
I'm wondering would beeswax work? A melt of beeswax and alumina that I just put on with a brush and fire?
It's probably way more healthy in the long run to try and work with the thinnest layer possible. I dream of not having to be around the possibility of breathing this stuff in. But I have not come up with a good method.
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Tue, January 15, 2008 - 4:36 PMIs your surface too curved for (kiln firing) shelf paper? Seems to me you'd save your lungs with sheets rather than paste.
But what do I know? I'm a lampworker! ;-> ~Jenny in Portland -
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Tue, January 15, 2008 - 9:13 PMIf you use paper be careful with the dust left from the paper. -
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Tue, January 15, 2008 - 9:18 PMyeah, it's not actual paper, but ceramic fiber in paper form. Also, from my experience with stainless, which was handkercheif vases, I can't think of how you could put paper on the form, and not have wrinkles ect on it. Could be the shape though.
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Wed, January 16, 2008 - 6:11 AMyeah I got curves.
More important is that I don't use Koal wool or fiberfrax unless I really have to.
The only binder in that is compression and sugar water so when it falls apart it
goes airborne very easily. All it takes is a one firing and the sugar burns out and
there's nothing holding it. Other warning the only reason it hasn't been banned
in the US is heavy lobbying. It is banned outright in the EU. It is essentially the
same thing as asbestos its just dow corning and a couple of other corporations
don't want you to know. -
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 1:05 AMwhat if you heat up the stainless form first, would a slightly thicker, but still thin, coating adhere when poured on?
would some sugar water in it help hold on the alumina?
recently i tried the paper. It is nasty after firing. no better than playing with kiln wash.
I blew some rondels and slumped them on the paper but got some wrinkles marks near the edges on some.
does that paper just wrinkle under the glass sometimes or is it all my fault? -
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 1:06 AMI've never had a problem with the paper, but I've only used it on flat surfaces. -
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 1:24 AMhuh...
it was on a flat shelf.
some rondels were more concave in the center than others so it must be pushing out from the center and making wrinkles. -
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 1:36 AMOkay, I have no idea what you're talking about, so any advice I have is useless.
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 10:37 AMYeah, torching the reverse side works,
I'm really trying to get it so there is nothing the glass can grab onto at 1400 degrees,
so I'm thinking of just having a kiln was that is all alumina. I'm probably going to order some fine grind alumina.
And then you mentioned sugar, yes on that...I cheat and use molasses at 10%
I guess I'm just going to sear a slight layer to the stainless everytime I use
I still have the perpetual problem tho of the alumina doing a freefall in the mix.
Last time I tried I was using a blender and kept it running as I dipped my sponge brush into it ( so it was always getting stirred)
yes I put my kilnwash down with reckless abandon
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 7:20 PMpotters use bentonite, 3or4%, for particle suspension but i don't have experience with the effects it has when using it in the kilnwash with glass.
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Thu, January 17, 2008 - 8:33 PMYou may try posting here,
talk.craftweb.com/forumdisplay.php
But... sometimes a thick skin is handy.
Good luck
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Re: kiln washing stainless
Fri, April 18, 2008 - 8:55 PMI use an airbrush to apply the kilnwash. In between coats, I use a blow dryer to dry it ('cause I'm impatient!). This works for me, but I should also say that I'm not working with big forms...small candle holder drape molds, and small plates and bowls. My kiln is only 8x8x6 inside.
Slumpy's is now selling a spray designed for slainless, but it's pretty pricy. (www.slumpys.com)
Hope this helps!